7 July 2008
CHACO CANYON: Stairway Through Stone (Part III)
Posted by Robin Easton under: Hobnobbin' with Robin .
We headed toward the cliff behind the ruins of Kin Kletso seeking out the Pueblo Alto Trail. It would take us through a slot in the cliff and up to the top of the mesa. We’d then be able to look down upon Pueblo Bonito and other buildings. Along the cliff base were a few petroglyphs.
Slot canyons are thrilling for me. I did not mind climbing through a narrow passage in the cliff. Being sandwiched in the earth between two towering rock walls was such an emotional experience. I felt great awe, very stilled inside, as if I had entered a sacred place worthy of deep respect and wonder. I had entered such a place. I was inside a great cathedral lit by shining sunlight, that climbed into the heavens.
We climbed a hundred feet from the valley floor to the mesa top. In places there was barely enough room for two people to pass inside the belly of the rock. The face of the cliff had cleaved away leaving a narrow passage for the Ancestral Puebloan people to travel to the top of the mesa, from one kiva to another.
I sat atop heaven in sweatpants and long sleeved shirt. I was sunburned from the previous day of shorts and tank top….we forgot sunscreen. The heat was so intense I could have fried an egg of the rocks, but I didn’t care. I covered myself with clothes so as not to further burn. I would have worn a down parka if needed. I was HAAAAPPY! I was with the man I love and who loves me. I was visiting a truly fascinating and ancient place on the planet. I was away from my computer, phones and work demands. I was camping and hiking….I was, I was, I was…in love with life!!! …Besides, the warm clothes came in handy when the night temperatures dropped into the thirties – Fahrenheit. I actually had to wear the wool ski cap I stuffed in my pack at the last minute. It was that cold. Simply thrilling!
I walked to the edge of the cliff and looked way down upon Pueblo Bonito, which once covered three acres and contained eight hundred rooms and thirty-two kivas. I was so giddy that close to the edge. I’m not afraid of heights or “the edge” — I’ve always walked “the edge” — but my sweetheart and I drank coffee with the park rangers that morning and it was VERY VERY good. I had two cups…and I NEVER NEVER drink coffee!!! : ) : ) My legs turned to rubber and my whole body felt trembly like a big blob of walking jello…not a good feeling when walking “the edge”. Nonetheless, undaunted, I got on my hands and knees, crawled to the edge, laid on my belly and photographed Pueblo Bonito.
I laid on the cliff’s edge and looked down at the pile of HUGE boulders (bottom left corner). I tried to steady my coffee-jittered fingers and couldn’t. So I finally braced my camera on the rock and clicked away. 
In January of 1941 heavy rain “let loose” a fractured section of the cliff wall, called “Threatening Rock”, which stood 97 feet and weighed approximately 30,000 tons. When it fell away from the cliff face it collapsed onto Pueblo Bonito and crushed part of the dwellings northwest wall and several rooms. At one time Pueblo Bonito reached five stories along the back wall. Today portions of the wall are supported with metal braces to keep it from falling over. Archaeologists believe the Ancestral Puebloans were very aware of the cliff’s potential to “tumble”. Nonetheless they chose to build beneath the fractured cliff, but built a retaining wall or reinforcement for the fractured cliff slab.
I found a delicate sun-bleached bone on the mesa top, next to some tiny two inch high flowers, possibly a bird bone. It was so light and hollow, made for flight. I picked it up and carted it in my hand for about a mile along the mesa top, marveling at it’s simple beauty. But on my return hike I placed it where I found it. I knew I could not take it home. The bird’s spirit lived high atop this barren mesa that touched the sky. Such a free spirit did not belong in my home in the city.
After exploring we returned to the canyon floor through the slot in the rock and ran into a Korean News team. They were fun guys to meet, continually smiling and nodding. Although we didn’t always understand each other we laughed a lot. When I came upon the last member of their team he pantomimed to me that he was very slow and scared and that I should go ahead of him. As I wiggled past him he again pantomimed. This time he raised his arms like a muscle builder, pointed at me and said, “brave”, “strong woman”, “goes easily”, because I went down the slot so nimbly. But then he didn’t know I was in love with slot canyons…and life.
Happy Trails, and may you always fall in love with life.
Robin
PS: NEXT WEEK: We will take a look at some of Chaco Canyon’s Kivas. “CHACO CANYON: It’s Never Enough” will conclude my Chaco Canyon series…..for now. : )
This Site: © Robin Easton
Website: http://www.nakedineden.com
Blog: http://nakedineden.com/nakedinedenblog/
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DEDICATED TO: (in alphabetical order)
I deeply enjoy Liara Croft’s site because she raises good philosophical questions and makes me think. She inspires me by bringing the things that I want to write about to the surface where I CAN write about them. This site is thoughtful, interesting and encouraging. Liara is a deep thinker and her writing reflects her depth and inner beauty. I am astounded at how prolific she is and how continually excellent her writing. Well done Liara!
If you love nature photography, gardens, flowers, early morning (or midnight) wanders through your garden then this site is a must. Being an avid gardener myself I particularly love Greg’s seasonal “ramblings” though his garden. : ) I love plants so I relate to much of what he writes, and I love photography so that enhances this lovely site even more. Greg is warm, funny and bright….AND If you ask him nicely he really WILL say “Hi” to the Atlantic Ocean for you. I did ask and he really DID go to the beach and say “Hi” for me. If you don’t believe me read his post: “Welcoming Summer : Fort Hill Walk”
35 Comments so far...
timethief Says:
7 July 2008 at 8:03 pm.
Oh how I wish I could travel. And how glad I am that you do and that you share your photos and stories with us all. Every photo you have posted is amazing but for me it was truly interesting to see the petroglyphs. Where I live we have many petrogylphs. Some are depictions of humans, some are depictions of animals we recognize and others are depictions of fascinating creatures that boggle the mind.
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the fearless blog Says:
8 July 2008 at 7:02 am.
The photo of “Pueblo Bonito” or the “pretty town” really captures the size and feel of the town particularly the round circles seen from above. I love circles and avoid sharp or square edges of anything…furniture, artwork or decorative pieces. The circles suggest community and connection to the earth, moon and sky. Your expedition, the photos and story, document more than a “once upon a time place” with “once upon a time people.” The past, present and future are all connected, and therefore “we” are all connected. I think that is why so many of us get that strange tingly feeling when we are in a museum, gallery, ancient place or standing next to a 300 year old tree. These “things” cry out to us, speak to us and therefore connect with us…if we are listening of course. We are drawn in by some magnetic force or spiritual force or “something.” We are one.
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David Says:
8 July 2008 at 7:06 am.
Very entertaining post Robin. I was drawn into it by your description of taking a photo over the edge of the ledge. What is very uncanny to me is that I have written several posts in the past week mentioning cliffs and edges of cliffs. And now here you are REALLY on the edge of one. My imagination is your reality. Also I see now better how you organize all these amazing thoughts and feelings into a coherent and doable lifestyle.
It’s always worthwhile coming here and reading your posts. Thank you.
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miriam Says:
8 July 2008 at 10:04 am.
looks like you are having a great time—nice photos—don’t get too close to the edge!!!!
when you get back and want some iced tea i have a new recipe for you to try.
contact me
thanks
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horatio salt Says:
8 July 2008 at 2:00 pm.
terrific post, as usual, robin. are you sure your hands were trembling because of the caffeine? perhaps it was because with every breath, you were taking a big gulp of life…
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sheasy Says:
8 July 2008 at 8:52 pm.
You have taken my breath away! You’ve captured moments with your camera, but your words have captured an experience and a FEELING that is so palpable. I can’t even express how my heart swells reading about your journey. I love the details about the sunburn and the contrast of the freezing cold – it’s great to FEEL ALIVE. Thanks, Robin. Can’t wait to read the next post!
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Liara Covert Says:
9 July 2008 at 4:24 am.
Robin, you have a way with words. Rocks you encounter have lives and spirits of their own. As you share their stories, they breathe energy into the human world and remind us we always have the power to expand how we think, feel and perceive. Camera images capture fleeting moments yet your personal perspectives encourage readers to bravely open their senses.
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soulMerlin Says:
9 July 2008 at 8:06 am.
Hi Robin ~ This is such a Happy post. I smiled about the coffee – but still, if the park rangers’ coffee was SO delicious then I understand… I love the light on the second shot down, of you entering the slot canyon. It reminded my of when I used to go potholing in the late 60 and early 70’s – in spaces so small that the toes and heels of my boots used to jam against the rock above and below me – and also doing backstroke in an underground stream, with just enough space for me nose between the water and the rock. Pueblo Bonito looks fantastic from above.
It was a joy to read
xhenry
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Greg Says:
9 July 2008 at 10:38 am.
You transport us to the most amazing places! Pueblo Bonito and Chaco Canyon are so beautiful, so ancient, so different from anything I know! Thank you for sharing your eyes and your mind with us, a knowledgeable and friendly guide (only 2 stars, tho, since she forgets things like sunscreen!).
It’s a shame about Threatening Rock having taken away part of this ancient place of wonder, but there’s also comfort in knowing that all things return to the earth and will have a new life afterward.
Thanks for the shout-out! You are a dear and I was happy to take your message to the ocean! I hope everyone will stop by the Garden sometime…
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Alexander M Zoltai Says:
9 July 2008 at 10:46 am.
So…
Your books are distributed in how many countries?
Your collections of stories reside in which libraries?
Your ineffable spirit soars in how many galaxies?
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phoenix Says:
9 July 2008 at 12:43 pm.
your way of writing is awesome, and with the awesome photos, it almost feels like I was there taking the photos. your experience between the rocks brought back memories of when i went to the caves a few months ago, amazing adventure inside mother earth..
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DrowseyMonkey Says:
10 July 2008 at 12:41 pm.
Wow! loved it … and the photos are amazing, well except for that creepy fella in the last one 
Loved the rock drawings tho.
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Graham Says:
10 July 2008 at 1:26 pm.
My goodness, I totally adore that photograph of you sat on top of the world looking over the canyon. I can feel the breeze and the warmth of the sun. I so truly understand why you were completely happy sat there…. I just wish I could climb inside the photograph and join you.
After falling over the edge of the quarry last year, I am a little nervous about going close to the edge at the moment, so am glad that you went there for me and took such a wonderful photograph.
I wonder what it would have looked like all those years ago when the whole place was populated? It must have been a spectacular sight full of hustle and bustle.
Robin, there are dreamers in this world, there are travelers and there are adventurers…. but rarely have I met somebody who is passionately all three!!! And I am profoundly fortunate to be able to listen your tales, your muses and your experiences.
Forever a friend
Graham 
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Claire Says:
10 July 2008 at 4:06 pm.
I have not been hiking for a fair few months now and I am very envious indeed.
This place looks absolutely amazing
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Marvin Says:
10 July 2008 at 9:42 pm.
I am always behind in my blog reading and have just caught up with your Chaco Canyon series, but not really. How could I possibly claim to be finished with these post when you have filled my head with thoughts and musings about the canyon and its people that will be circulating for many days. Thank you for that.
I know it must pain you to illustrate such a majestic place with the smaller photos, but thank you for that too. With my tin can and string, I could never load and read your posts if the photos’ sizes matched the grandeur of their subjects.
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John Maslowski Says:
11 July 2008 at 7:57 am.
Fabulous pictures and interesting narratives. First time visitor, I’m impressed with your site. You apparently put a lot of energy and effort into it, nice job!
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Sandpiper Says:
11 July 2008 at 12:16 pm.
I’ve so enjoyed these recent posts of yours. I’ve always been interested in archaeology, and this is one place I have on my list of places to see before I die. I love reading your stories and your pictures are beautiful, too. Thanks for visiting my blog while I’ve been sick and leaving your nice comments and good wishes. I’m going to try and slowly catch up over the next week, but I’m very far behind, so it will take some time to get back into a routine. Have a great weekend.
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Walter Says:
11 July 2008 at 6:31 pm.
You are sweet indeed, odd, this makes me think of a strange dream I had about going out west to the land of the Zuni. In the dream I met a Zuni maiden called Corn Woman. This woman was really light on her feet to be sure, in the dream she could float through the air. I saw her clear a bench by at least a foot as she floated over with a special message for me. That the Zuni elders had requested that I come visit with them over some grave matter, that I’m not at all sure of. And at the same time I could see all those wise men, standing back behind this Corn Woman, the men were all looking hard at me, as if they thought I was someone they were anticipating. The woman was nice and gave me a warm feeling, but seemed very serious in the way she gave the message. Funny thing, I don’t remember seeing her mouth move the whole time she talked.
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Calder Says:
12 July 2008 at 6:30 am.
Impressive post Robin, I so enjoyed seeing and reading about your inspirational adventure. Thanks for taking me to a place one could only dream of. Take care!
Peace and love!
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Dr. Rob Says:
12 July 2008 at 6:28 pm.
I’m traveling vicariously through you, Robin. Where are we going next?
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JOURNEYTIME Says:
13 July 2008 at 8:23 am.
robin,
As per usual you truly ” come up with the goods”.
you are one soul who is able to pierce the veils and in the process you share of yourself selflessly with all those who choose to visit.
you are the consumate conjuror with the imagery which brings your journey into the minds of those that read.
more importantly you are able to surrender to the perceived frailties and fears and grow from strength to strength.
i thank you for the perseverence and the courage on your journey,
take care
namaste
derick
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Ophelia Rising Says:
13 July 2008 at 8:34 pm.
OH, I wish I was there on my stomach with you, looking over the edge, taking pictures and feeling queezy.
And the beautiful, fragile bone you found is a precious gift, accompanying you for a little while on your journey, and I think of that bone now, probably still there amid the rocks and flowers, poised to be reunited back to the earth from where it came. I love going to a place in nature, and then when I get back to “civilization,” I love to think about that thing still being there, in that spot, day in and day out, nestled in its spot. There are many places I think of, while I sit here at the computer. That ocean, with the waves spiraling in. That mountain top – the mass of water sitting alive with energy, while the loons howled. That place where the trees whispered one at a time, and in succession, while we lay in our tent, listening to that language.
And, I’ll bet that man KNEW you were in love with the canyons. That is something I’m sure is apparent, without a need for words.
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FeministScribbler Says:
14 July 2008 at 11:46 am.
What beautiful photos and descriptions! Thanks so much for sharing your travels!
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Pretty Me Says:
14 July 2008 at 6:39 pm.
Very well said as I can see in the pictures… How I wish I can travel in different places around the world… =)
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Nards Says:
15 July 2008 at 7:41 am.
Awesome Robin! Absolutely awesome! Just about anyone can take pictures, but you (like my husband) have “the eye”. Thank you for taking us “armchair travelers” along with you. The warmth, the beauty and the respect that you have for nature is wonderfully, magically captured for all to enjoy. This is a gift that not all possess. Thanks again for sharing. – Nards
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Debbie Hartmann Says:
15 July 2008 at 7:09 pm.
Robin,
I have truly enjoyed reading these posts about Chaco Canyon! The reading is great, the photos are wonderful…I am so happy you got to experience this with someone you love…thanks for sharing your travels with us!
Debbie
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scott sheperd Says:
17 July 2008 at 6:40 am.
Great stuff. Whenever I need a shot of life and I’m not out in it myself I go to your site.
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bird Says:
27 July 2008 at 9:16 am.
I’m going to have to find out more about those pteroglyphs – I find these kinds of art utterly fascinating. And how I wish I shared your fearlessness for heights! I prefer to call my condition a fear of falling as it stems from clumsiness, and I recognise your jittery crawl to the edge of the cliff as something I’ve done many times myself. I absolutely cannot do certain ridge walks due to a lack of sure footedness, but I love to push my boundaries and walk in places that scare me, providing I’m feeling strong and limber enough to do it without killing myself. Anyway forgive my blabbing, I’m just enthusiastic about the photos and view of the settlement from on high. There is something exhilarating about clambering around like that!
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Forestman Says:
30 July 2008 at 5:11 pm.
The third picture fills me with the desire for flight! Someone once asked me how I could be so unafraid of heights and I answered truthfully ” because I think I can fly”. I love the southwest art, such living colors! Someday we will visit the area, I love the wind sculptured rock and its such a opposite habitat from our great lakes area. Glad to read of your pleasure of the area I wish more people were so aware of the land around them.
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Robin Easton Says:
30 July 2008 at 6:13 pm.
@ Forestman:
It is so “interesting” that this comment came in today. and that I had time to respond to it. I say it was “interesting” because I had the most remarkable experience while sitting at my desk working this morning. All of a sudden I felt like I was a bird. I’m serious. I felt it in my arms and shoulders. I knew exactly how it felt to fly. My arms no longer felt like arms…but rather like wings. I knew that I could fly. (And I was not and am not on drugs LOL) — it was the most amazing feeling. I knew how to push down against the wind to raise myself upward. I knew how to flick the backward edges of my wings so that air could pass more easily beneath them when I wanted less resistance. I have had many many dreams of flying all my life. In fact over the years I learned to fly better with each passing dream and year. I have at times flown over vast distances of the Earth. But today’s experience was the first time I felt the intense urge to fly while awake or not standing on the edge of a cliff. I am very touched by your straight out honest words, “Because I think I can fly.” I know the feeling and the desire. People have said to me that I should take up hang gliding or flying etc. But the desire is to do it with my own body. So…like I said….I fly a LOT in my dreams. Thank you so much for sharing.
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Forestman Says:
30 July 2008 at 7:05 pm.
Incredible! Please go to my blog and click on the past posts of June 15 through June 22. The post for the 20th showing the seagull riding the wind. This flight feeling is so strong in me but this is the first time I heard of it in another. Also I took flight training for awhile but it just sucked all the life out of the joy I felt. Again, amazing.
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Debbie Hartmann Says:
30 July 2008 at 7:31 pm.
This is how I think about it. I figure that people who think they can fly, or have had the very real experience of flying in their dreams or awake, are more tuned into theirs SOULS than some people. Like I mean, more sensitive to what our souls actually do and will do when not in these heavy cumbersome temporary bodies of ours. Because when we (and when I say “we” I mean our true souls that make us who we are) leave our bodies, our souls means of transportation throughout the universe is by flying. And I think some people are more tuned into this experience than others. Like maybe their bodies have a better memory of what their souls did before entering into the temporary human body. I figure our human bodies must really feel like a jail for the soul compared to the freedom of flying around in the universe. Any way, just my thoughts. Sometimes I just sit around and contemplate these things.
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Robin Easton Says:
30 July 2008 at 7:54 pm.
@Debbie Hartman:
WOW!!! I loved reading this. How exciting! I wish you and Forestman were here right now and we could share more experiences about this. I’m going to tell him about your comment here as I think he would love it too. This is beautiful Debbie. And I love how you just put it out there like this. I am going to print out this comment as it is something I want to read more than once. And I want to hold it in my hand while I read it.
As I reread your comment a second time (just now)…I felt in my body, Debbie, the truth of what you wrote here. There is great hope and freedom in that truth. It’s very powerful. Honestly? it moved me to tears. I felt that same rush of truth and goosebumps when FORESTMAN said he knew how to fly.
Thank you my friend for sharing this. It means more than you know….wait…you DO know. That’s the whole point!!!
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